Ольборга есть замечательная традиция: ежегодно здесь проводится карнавал, посвящённый встрече весны

Копенгаген

О, Дания, Дания! Страна старинных замков и обитающих в них беззлобных призраков, страна викингов и туманов, страна сказочная, древняя, непонятная… Маленькая страна, поражающая весь мир и своими шедеврами, и своей сердечностью, и своими небольшими, очень аккуратными и комфортными городками. Сердце Дании, её столица – город Копенгаген, в переводе с датского языка, «Гавань торговцев». Именно сюда, в Копенгаген, в стародавние времена доставлялись отовсюду самые разнообразные товары, именно здесь бойкие купцы из заморских стран заключали свои первые сделки с датчанами.

Он совсем небольшой, один из старейших в Европе город, расположившийся на двух островах – Зеландии и Амагере. Однако для Дании это самый крупный город, ведь в нём более полумиллиона жителей. А вместе с пригородами – так и вовсе целый миллион!

Копенгаген удивляет своей неординарностью. Он и оживлённый, процветающий, современный и, одновременно, царственно спокойный, старинный, вальяжный и немного лукавый. Впрочем, наверное, это закономерно, ведь Копенгагену, по некоторым данным, как поселению, уже больше 6000 лет. Был он изначально маленькой пристанью, возле которой ютились домишки рыбаков. Потом пристань облюбовали заморские торговцы для причала своих кораблей, и со временем рыбацкая деревушка превратилась в благоденствующий шумный городок.

Столицей Дании Копенгаген, с лёгкой руки короля Вальдемара Великого, был провозглашён в 1343 году. А в пятнадцатом веке он стал столицей Швеции и Норвегии, и, как водится в таких случаях, королевской резиденцией. С тех пор город пережил многое. В нём строились замки и башни, его штурмовали шведы и британцы, осаждали немцы, он горел и погибал от эпидемий, но он выжил. И так и остался королевской резиденцией – нынешняя королева Дании, Маргрет II, проживает в самом центре этого фантастического города.

Сегодня он безмятежен, приветлив, аккуратен и комфортен. Когда-то давно по его улочкам со старыми, много повидавшими домами, бродил великий Ганс Христиан Андерсен. Кто знает, может быть, в каком-то из этих окошечек, украшенных геранью, и увидел он Герду, печалившуюся о своём Кае? Кто знает… В Копенгагене всё может быть.

В его воздухе витает запах свежеиспеченного хлеба, чистенькие витрины магазинов приветливо улыбаются прохожим, а по бульварам, среди уличных музыкантов, важно вышагивают деловитые трубочисты. Ну, разве такой город не может не удивлять? Разве может случиться, чтобы в нём не было ничего, на что стоило бы посмотреть, куда стоило бы сходить и что стоило бы послушать? Безусловно, нет!

Гордость Копенгагена — парк развлечений Тиволи

Вот, к примеру, гордость Копенгагена, всемирно известный парк развлечений Тиволи. Строился он в 1843 году Георгом Кастерсеном персонально для короля Кристиана VIII. Конечно же, парк уже изначально был сказочно красив, однако сегодня настолько великолепен, что у посетителей просто перехватывает дыхание. Тысячи огней, фейерверков, множество фонтанов, невероятное количество цветов, и музыка, музыка, музыка… В Театре Пантомимы, построенном в ещё в девятнадцатом веке, представления идут и по сей день, на всевозможных концертных площадках играют джазовые, духовые и симфонические оркестры, а возле берега озера, что находится внутри парка, таинственно мерцая в огнях расположенного тут ресторана, покачивается старинный фрегат.

Уютный Королевский парк в Копенгагене

Конечно же, не один парк Тиволи есть в Копенгагене. Те, кто устал от напряжённого ритма современной жизни, обычно отправляются отдохнуть в удивительно уютный Королевский парк, где можно спокойно посидеть за чашечкой кофе в каком-нибудь маленьком кафе, а любители природы могут с удовольствием провести время в Ботаническом парке, среди невероятных многоярусных оранжерей. В копенгагенском парке Эстеда можно полюбоваться на великолепную коллекцию античных скульптур. А парк Бакен – самый старый парк развлечений в мире – по легенде, обязан своим происхождением девочке, которая в шестнадцатом веке обнаружила в Королевском оленьем парке на севере от Копенгагена родник. Вокруг природного источника, обладающего, по мнению жителей тех лет, лечебными свойствами, со временем стали возникать постоялые дворы для желающих исцелиться. А туда, где собирается большое количество людей, тянутся, как правило, и те, кто этих людей развлекает. В итоге возле родника появились балаганы, перевозные театры и всевозможные аттракционы, число которых сейчас выросло до ста пятидесяти. Сегодня в парке весело. Публика здесь ежедневно развлекается выступлениями знаменитого кукольного персонажа Пьеро и представлениями в единственном в мире Датском кабаре, которому уже ни много, ни мало – сто семьдесят шесть лет.

Атмосфера в Копенгагене, без преувеличения можно сказать, просто волшебная. Он пронизан каналами, путешествуя по которым, можно увидеть все жемчужины города, всю его величественность и красоту. Самый колоритный район города – Нюхавн, протянулся вдоль соединяющего внутренний город с морем канала Новая гавань. Канал был прорыт ещё в 1671 году по проекту королевского инженера, и большинство зданий, выстроенных вдоль него, имеют более чем трёхсотлетнюю историю. Он необыкновенно красив. Мирно покачивающиеся на воде старинные деревянные суда на фоне аккуратных, прижавшихся друг к другу двух - трёхэтажных разноцветных домиков, - зрелище просто незабываемое! Именно в этих домиках более, чем полтора столетия назад жил и творил Ганс Христиан Андерсен. В конце восемнадцатого – начале девятнадцатого века область вокруг канала была центром торговли в Копенгагене.

Музеи Копенгагена

Возле Нюхавн находится Национальный музей и художественная галерея Глиптотека, в которой собраны коллекции живописи и скульптуры из Египта, Рима, Греции, Дании, Франции. Экспозиция галереи представляет и античное, и современное искусство. В ней выставлено более сорока работ Гогена, скульптуры Родена и произведения Дега, выполненные из бронзы.

Национальный музей - это крупнейший культурно-исторический музей Дании. Открыт он был в 1892 году. Вся история Дании, начиная с каменного века, прослеживается в экспозициях этого музея, содержащих и античные экспонаты, и монеты, и медали, и даже целую коллекцию детских игрушек.

Музеев в Копенгагене свыше шестидесяти. Есть здесь и знаменитый музей восковых фигур мадам Тюссо, и музей рекордов Гиннеса, и музей Почты и Телевидения, и музей чудес с диковинками со всего мира и с весьма необычным названием “Хотите - верьте, хотите - нет”, и даже музей Эротики, первый в мире продемонстрировавший в своей экспозиции, состоящей из открыток, фотографий, фильмов, скульптур и прочего, историю эротизма.

Музей Кораблей Викингов с гордостью показывает публике своё достояние – пять кораблей викингов, которые были подняты со дна Фьорда Роскилде после многовекового пребывания под водой.

На побережье расположился музей современного искусства «Аркен», напоминающий очертаниями своей архитектуры величественный белый корабль. А неподалёку от Копенгагена, в городке Хумлебек, в грандиозном старинном парке, на берегу пролива Эресунн, находится известнейший в Европе музей современного искусства «Луизиана». В коллекции этого музея – произведения великих мастеров всего мира.

В музее художника и скульптора Бертеля Торвальдсена представлены собрание картин 1750-1850 годов и античных статуй из коллекции Торвальдсена и его собственные работы. Первый датский художник, получивший широкое международное признание, Бертель Торвальдсен собрал очень ценную античную коллекцию, которую впоследствии подарил своему народу. Его музей, открытый в 1848 году, находится возле бывшей королевской резиденции – дворца Христиансборг.

Дворцы Копенгагена

Стоит дворец Христиансборг на острове, который так и называется – Дворцовый остров. Он окружён каналами, через которые перекинуто восемь великолепных мостов, соединяющих остров с городом. Первые постройки дворца выросли в начале восемнадцатого века на развалинах древней крепости, которые можно увидеть и сегодня в его подвалах. Комплекс дворца неоднократно перестраивался и реставрировался, поэтому сейчас он предстаёт перед глазами людей совсем не в том виде, в каком был возведён изначально. Однако здание, построенное в стиле барокко, выглядит по-прежнему величественно и даже кажется иногда несколько надменным. Это ощущение возникает, вероятно, оттого, что во дворце расположился Парламент Дании и Высшая судебная палата, в нём же находятся Королевские приёмные, состоящие из Частной библиотеки Королевы, Палаты для Аудиенций, Большого Королевского зала и Тронного зала, и действующие королевские конюшни. Как же не почувствовать благоговение перед столь значительным сооружением обычному, не наделённому полномочиями власти, человеку? Впрочем, внешняя неприступность дворца – всего лишь антураж. «Обычные» люди могут посещать и Королевскую библиотеку, и театральный музей, и расположенный в одном из крыльев дворца королевский музей «Арсенал» с интереснейшими коллекциями карет, старинной одежды и оружия.

А дворец Амалиенборг, где находится резиденция королевской семьи, для посетителей интересен своим музеем, который демонстрирует королевские апартаменты трёх поколений царствующих особ. Кроме того, они могут наблюдать очень интересную церемонию смены караула в то время, когда королева находится в резиденции. Ритуал этот проходит очень пышно. Ровно в полдень под бравурные звуки марша солдаты в ярко-красных мундирах и высоких меховых шапках на глазах у восторженных зрителей целых полчаса маршируют по площади. Дворцовый комплекс состоит из четырех изящных зданий-близнецов, выстроенных в стиле рококо. Здания окружены садом, отделяющим их от порта.

Дворец Розенборг – это единственный, сохранившийся без изменений, дворец времён короля Кристиана IV. Возведён он был в 1633 году. Предназначался дворец под летнюю королевскую резиденцию и спроектирован самим королём в стиле голландского ренессанса. Сегодня в стенах дворца расположен музей с богатейшими коллекциями оружия, мебели, драгоценностей датской королевской семьи и королевского фарфора и серебра.

Дворцы – не единственные архитектурные памятники Копенгагена. Старинные, ревностно хранящие в своих стенах воспоминания о прошлом, замки в окрестностях города тоже имеются. К примеру, оригинально отделанный замок Розенборг, который возвышается в окружении маленького ухоженного парка. Выстроен замок был в 1632 году, а в 1858 году в нём расположился музей Датских королей с превосходной художественной экспозицией.

Замки Копенгагена

Немного севернее столицы Дании, на трёх маленьких островах посреди озера, находится замок Фредериксборг. Интерьеры его Тронного и Рыцарского залов впечатляют своей строгой изысканностью, а в парке вокруг Фредериксборга всегда царит особая атмосфера уединённости и покоя: высокие дубы и вязы гордо поднимаются над изумрудными лужайками, а по глади фигурного озерца важно проплывают ослепительно красивые лебеди.

Замок Кронберг, расположенный в сорока километрах от Копенгагена, в городе Хельсингёре, в отличие от предыдущих замков, мало располагает к умиротворённой мечтательности – он суров и агрессивно мрачен. Барельефы на воротах замка изображают женщин с черепами в руках, а тяжёлые деревянные двери увенчаны устрашающе оскалившимися мордами чудовищ. Именно в этом замке, по уверениям Шекспира, изводил себя в поисках ответа на вечные вопросы несчастный Гамлет, и именно там, где-то в подземельях, до сих пор никак не успокоится в поисках способа отмщения тень его отца. Впрочем, короли в Кромберге никогда не жили, а сейчас в нём размещается Музей судоходства и торговли.

Храмы Копенгагена

Конечно же, есть в Копенгагене и великолепные храмы. Мраморный собор постройки 1894 года, разместившийся прямо возле королевской резиденции – это крупнейший собор Скандинавии. Проект этой церкви выполнен по аналогии с проектом Собора св. Павла в Риме. Основным материалом для строительства храма должен был стать норвежский мрамор, однако жизнь внесла свои коррективы – из-за нехватки средств мрамор пришлось заменить, где на известняк, а где на дерево. Но, несмотря на то, что размеры церкви получились на треть меньше тех, что предполагались проектом, а нехватка мрамора сказалась на необходимости постоянной реставрации, храм всё же выглядит монументально и внушительно.

Недалеко от Мраморного собора высится златоглавая русская православная церковь Александра Невского. Сооружена она была в 1864 году специально для царской семьи, которая почти ежегодно посещала Данию, и для сотрудников российского посольства.

Есть в Копенгагене и ещё один храм – Церковь Спасителя, с уникальным шпилем, который, вопреки всем архитектурным традициям, закручен против часовой стрелки. Находится он в старом районе города, Кристианхавне, где раньше возводили свои особняки богатые купцы и просто состоятельные люди. В середине семидесятых годов двадцатого века один из уголков этого района, Кристианиа, был заброшен, и, в итоге, в нём нашли приют бездомные и безработные. С тех пор Кристианиа пользуется дурной славой, поэтому туристы заглядывают в район Кристианхавн довольно редко.

Центр Копенгагена

Зато очень популярен среди них центр Копенгагена – площадь, где находится Городская Ратуша, перестраиваемая, за всё время своего существования, уже шесть раз. Выстроена Ратуша из красного кирпича, а высота её – 105,6 метра. Здание ратуши оборудовано весьма оригинальным термометром, который в хорошую погоду демонстрирует фигурку симпатичной девушки на велосипеде, а в плохую – ту же девушку, но уже с зонтиком в руках. На здании есть астрономические часы Йенса Ольсена, погрешность хода которых – всего 0,4 секунды в триста лет. Возле Ратуши расположены необычный фонтан под названием «Бык, раздирающий дракона» и постамент, на котором возвышаются два викинга-трубадура. Судя по легенде, викинги должны трубить в том случае, если по площади проходит невинная девушка, однако звука труб пока ещё никто не слышал.

Круглая башня — диковинка Копенгагена

Есть в Копенгагене и ещё одна диковинка – Круглая башня, на фасаде которой укреплена золотая эмблема. Построена она была в 1642 году как астрономическая обсерватория старинного копенгагенского университета. Высота башни – 36 метров. Внутри сооружения есть не имеющий ступеней спиральный пологий подъём, длина которого – 209 метров. Курьёзный факт - по этому уникальному подъёму в 1716 году великий царь всея Руси Петр Первый проскакал на коне до самой вершины башни! Да ещё и не один, а в сопровождении кареты с царицей Екатериной… Сейчас на этой вершине установлен вращающийся купол, с площадки которого открывается изумительная панорама Копенгагена.

Скульптура Русалочки в Дании

И, наконец, самая, пожалуй, известная достопримечательность столицы Дании, - скульптура героини сказки Андерсена, милой и верной Русалочки, грустно вглядывающейся в морские волны со своего постамента в Копенгагенской гавани. Установили это олицетворение жертвенной любви в 1912 году. Памятник был создан скульптором Эдвардом Эриксеном, а моделью для него стала известная датская балерина начала двадцатого века. С тех пор Русалочка обречена вечно сидеть на холодном и влажном камне у гавани, тоскуя о своём принце. Время от времени кто-то отбивает памятнику голову. Ходят слухи, что это датские феминистки, возмущённые столь жестокой «эксплуатацией женского тела». Однако городские власти упорно восстанавливают памятник вновь и вновь. Иначе и быть не может, ведь Русалочка – это символ не только Копенгагена, но и всей Дании!

Недалеко от прекрасной Русалочки находится самый большой фонтан Копенгагена – Гефиона. Назван он в честь скандинавской богини, которая, по преданию, и сделала пригодной для обитания территорию острова Зеландия, изначально заколдовав шведского короля, а затем вспахав весь остров с помощью своих сыновей, превращённых в быков.

Одним словом, в столице Дании есть куда пойти любителям исторических ценностей. Однако не будут скучать здесь и поклонники экзотики, и фанаты шопинга. Те, кому не терпится расстаться с деньгами, отправляются, как правило, на улицу Стрёгет. Это самая старая и самая длинная пешеходная улица в мире, на которой находится множество магазинов, бутиков, баров и ресторанов. Оживлённая торговля идёт и под открытым небом, где прямо на булыжной мостовой, рядом с цветочницами и уличными музыкантами, разместились художники, фотографы и торговцы всевозможными занятными вещичками.

Поклонники экзотики могут посетить копенгагенский аквариум, полный всевозможных диковинных обитателей водоёмов, собранных со всех уголков земного шара. Некоторые, наиболее безопасные, экземпляры этих водных существ можно даже потрогать руками. Аквариум, который является одним из самых длинных в Европе, был открыт на побережье Эрессунского залива в 1939 году.

Рассказывать о Копенгагене можно бесконечно долго. Каждый его уголок, каждая улочка чем-то притягивают, удивляют и открываются каждый раз с новой стороны. Он так же увлекателен и разнообразен, как увлекательны и разнообразны сказки романтичного фантазёра Андерсена, написанные здесь. Кажется, что Копенгаген – это очередная выдумка великого сказочника. Но... Копенгаген – реальность. Уютная, полная очарования и неудержимо манящая реальность.





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Saltan8383 [2014-06-13 16:56:54]
Shernazarov
[2012-10-26 10:49:06]
Я в восторге от вашего рассказа, какой вы замечательный рассказчик, со знанием города, истории, и с большой любовью.Спасибо
[2012-05-04 07:43:38]
Здравсвуйте, меня интересуют экскурсии Капенгаген и окресности 23 и 24 июня и 6 июля

[2011-04-20 13:59:39]
Спасибо ,за полезную информацию.
[2010-04-16 18:32:26]
Насчет Христиании - неправда! Это один из самых популярных у туристов уголков Копенгагена. И гостиницы (а их там масса) всегда именно там полны - просто так, приехав в город, в них не попадешь, если не заказал заранее. Кстати, я сам, когда бываю в Копенгагене (в среднем от 4 до 8 раз в год - работаю в Санкт-Петербурге на датскую фирму), всегда останавливаюсь именно там, хотя, уверяю, могу позволить себе если и не "Хилтон", то нечто подороже, так это бесспорно. Короче - Христиания - один из самых приятных и уютных уголков города!

 
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